A few short years ago, the North Fork's sleepy harborfront village of Greenport came alive with several new dining destinations worth the trip. Most have appropriately nautical themes inspired by the surrounding sea and turn-of-the-century Victorian architecture, but the one that consistently continues to dazzle with its stylish Manhattan ambiance and superb fare is named for a bivalve rarely seen on its changing menu: The Frisky Oyster.

Co-owners Dennis McDermott and Hank Tomashevski (responsible for a not-to-be-missed chocolate pot de crème) are proving they have what it takes to make it in a risky business in what remains a somewhat seasonal region, Long Island's East End. Dennis, who has been training intensively for the NYC Marathon (he's running this Sunday), knows all regulars by name and greets everyone on busy weekend nights when reservations are definitely required, even in winter.

Since I reviewed this restaurant last summer, there has been a change in the kitchen staff, though the transition is so seamless as to be almost unnoticeable. Former chef Greg Ling has since moved on, and has been replaced by Ross Essner, a major talent who lost his kitchen when the Shady Lady Inn, on Greenport's North Road, recently closed. Perhaps the seamlessness is in part a result of Greg and Ross' previous association, before Greg replaced Ross (who was moving to Greenport) at Philadelphia's trendy hot spot Rx after working as his sous chef at Bleu, in Philly's ritzy Rittenhouse Square.

Speaking of bivalves, on a visit before Greg's departure I was lucky enough to sample what remains a personal best-of-all-time mussel dish, made with blood orange juice and fresh fennel. Despite slightly fussy ingredients, I have yet to taste its equal. But if a recent visit, with Ross now at the helm, is any indication, patrons new and old are in for some truly excellent eats.

Dennis and Hank are very hands-on owners, and it shows in the consistency of the food and the service. The decision to bring Ross onboard seems a natural choice for what the owners clearly want the restaurant to be, a chic but welcoming haven for everyone who loves well-prepared, simple but fabulous food.

The menu changes almost nightly, though a few staples can usually be counted upon. A recent visit proved that the country salad with crispy pancetta, roasted garlic and gorgonzola, and a toss of romaine hearts with applewood smoked bacon, shaved red onion and a Maytag blue cheese dressing (each $10) still make regular appearances. Both are delicious. A new addition, a tapas plate of Serrano ham, pequillo peppers, saffron shrimp, Manchego cheese, grilled eggplant and tapenade croutons ($12) would make excellent amuses bouches for a party of four or a shared appetizer for two. But the showstopper of the night was the plate of spicy Szechwan pork ribs with Asian slaw ($12). The spice-infused meat fell from the bone into a pool of dark brown sauce that was perfectly foiled by the cool, vinegary strips of slaw.

Entrees included a “cowboy” rib eye steak ($30) rubbed with chili powder and other spices sitting atop a flavor-packed salad of incredible, local heirloom tomatoes in rainbow shades soaked in a marinade redolent of balsamic vinegar. The steak was topped with crisp Vidalia onion rings and drew raves from the person who ordered it and jealousy from those who didn't. A double pork chop with mashed sweet potatoes was only slightly less satisfying, having some tough competition in the steak. Pan-seared sea scallops ($28) atop a saffron-infused risotto were treated to a coat of irresistible lobster “nage,” a sauce concentrated with lobster flavor via reduction. It was sublime over the scallops, which also shared the plate with a small, pungent sauté of broccoli rabe. A Long Island duck breast, served medium rare and sliced atop pickled red cabbage was another star in its luscious sauce, especially with its accompanying duck and goat cheese stuffed “cigar” made from pastry.

Though we didn't try it, a pan-roasted fillet of striped bass ($28) looked soothing and inviting at a nearby table, and the standard steak frites ($29) always on the menu (at least during my visits) is as good a version of this classic bistro dish as any I have tried.

Desserts always include a very good Key lime pie and chocolate soufflé cake, but as mentioned earlier, the outstanding finale here is the pot de crème. Order it if available.

Frisky Oyster's wine list is diverse, with bottles from Argentina, New Zealand, Mexico and Spain in addition to France, California, Italy and the East End. Recent by-the-glass offerings included a good, dry Rosé – a Grenache – from Alto Adige, Italy ($8) and the meritage style red Ravenswood Vintner's Blend ($9) from Sonoma. Also new is the introduction of a flight of very interesting dessert wines ($14) including Castello di Borghese's wonderful Late Harvest Riesling Allegra (dessert by itself) and the fascinating Dulce Monastrell from Bodegas Olivares of Spain. This wine is full of mulberry aromas and rich prune and raisin flavors. I have never tasted anything quite like it.

Frisky Oyster is currently open Wednesday-Sunday for dinner until 10 p.m., later on weekends.

Atmosphere : city-chic, noise level lower in rear

Service : informed and attentive

Assessment : Among the best the East End offers

Price : Appetizers $9-14, Entrees $22-30

Recommended : All salads, pork ribs, scallops, duck, steak specials, pot de crème, specialty cocktails at the bar